Hola amigos!
So this weekend we had another planned trip to Córdoba. To give some history, Córdoba was the capital of the Hispania Ulterior during the Roman Republic, and the capital of the Caliphate of Córdoba when the Muslims ruled Spain. It is said to have had more than a million inhabitants in the 10th century, making it the most populous city in the world at that point.
The bus ride from Málaga was about 2.5 hours long and the first place we went was Madinat al-Zahra. This place is Muslim palace-city built in 936. I'm not sure if "palace-city" could even really describe it. It was a huge town completely surrounded enclosed by walls and at the top of a hill overloooking all of Córdoba. Only 11% of it had even been excavated fully and only 5% was open to the public. We first watched an animated video recreating the palace and what it looked like way back when. Then we took a bus to the top of the hill and went into the archaeological site.


What is left standing is slowly being restored, so some parts looked like piles of rubble while others looked completely done. We walked through the different rooms of the palace and Manolo, our tour guide, pointed certain things out. For one, Muslims had plumbing systems in the 10th century that were built into the castle. The hole in the ground was used for sewage. Also, the architecture is consistent with an Islamic style . There are arches everywhere and geometric designs are depicted instead of people or animals. Gardens and water are center points in the design.




A focal point of the castle in the "mezquita"or mosque, although it is actually located outside of the palace walls. This is because it served as the mosque for all of Córdoba at the time, and most people were not allowed inside the city walls. Outside the mosque was a bathing area where people washed themselves before entering. And I'm not 100% sure but I believe Manolo said that there were separate entrances for men and women.
After Madinat Al-Zahra, we headed into the city of Córdoba to head to the Sinagoga and Catedral. We passed over a bridge built by the Romans when they occupied Spain. It was quite exciting because this was the first bridge I had seen with water under it. Due to the drought, many of the rivers are dried up in the south of Spain.
To get to the synagogue, we had to go down a series of narrow streets. In reality, the synagogue was very small. It was built in the 1315 and is the only synagogue that exists in Andalucía and one of three in all of Spain that exist today. When the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492, it became a hospital, a chapel for shoemakers and a school for children. After some time, it was made into a national monument and restored.
After all of that, we headed to lunch. I ended up at a restaurant called 101 tapas and it was delicious. We ordered eggplant with honey (my new favorite dish), fried squid, fried cheese balls, and gazpachuello (a soup).
The last thing for the day was the Cathedral/Mosque. This is one of the most well-known things in Córdoba. The construction of the mosque started in 785 (Moors took over Spain in 711) and it was small at first but had very distinguished red and white double arches. As it expanded through the years, the architects kept the same design and continued with the unique arches. Although Manolo is our tour guide, when we go to some public sites, they only allow their licensed tour guides, so we had a new guide. When we first entered, it seemed very dark but the arches were immediately striking. As we walked through, the building seems to lack some organization and that is because it was built in 6 different installments.


At the end of the first section, there is the original mihrab. A mihrab is a niche in the wall that indicates which way to face when praying (always toward Mecca). Interestingly, the mosque in Córdoba is the only one in the world that does not face Mecca- it faces south instead of southeast. The mihrab is in impeccable condition and there for good reason. When the mosque was converted into a church after the Reconquista in the 14th century, the worshipers did not want to see the mihrab. So, naturally, they covered it with plaster. For years and years they kept it covered and continued to pay to have the plaster maintained. After some time, no one was interested in paying anymore and the plaster came off. Ironically, it turns out that the plaster had been protecting the original design all that time and it was in very good condition (much better than it would have been if they just left it alone) when it was revealed again. Pretty ironic.

The aspect I found most interesting about the building was the juxtaposition of two religions. The architecture was clearly Moorish with the arches, geometric designs and lack of people or animals. However, there were statues of angels carved into the walls and crucifixes right under the red and white arches. This makes the Córdoba mezquita/catedral very unique. In most other prominent cities in Spain that had large mosques, they were completely destroyed and built over when the Christians took over power. In Toledo, Granada, Sevilla and Málaga for example, cathedrals stand over the ruins of the mosques that once were there.
In total, there are over 800 arches remaining today in the mosque/cathedral. It was truly amazing to see. After we left, we got some ice cream and headed back to Málaga. So far, Córdoba has been one of the best experiences of Spain and I loved all the history it has.
Hasta luego!